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Oxtail: coveted ragu

This stew has something in common with others such as stewed tripe, baked fish with all the trimmings, gachas, or pipirrana: they all are markedly Andalusian. But oxtail is also associated with a certain bullfighting tradition, so it is also typical outside Andalusia, for example in Salamanca, Madrid and the south of France.

OXTAIL: COVETED RAGU

This stew has something in common with others such as stewed tripe, baked fish with all the trimmings, gachas, or pipirrana: they all are markedly Andalusian. But oxtail is also associated with a certain bullfighting tradition, so it is also typical outside Andalusia, for example in Salamanca, Madrid and the south of France. It is said that it appeared way back in “De re coquinaria”, the 1st-century CE treaty on gastronomy written by Marcus Gavius Apicius, considered the first gourmet –therefore, good food lover- in history.

Rabo de toro a la malagueña [Málaga-style oxtail] is a delicious ragu popular with local diners and visitors alike, and that comes as no surprise. However, it is a demanding dish to make in terms of cooking time, which must be very slow. Peppers can be replaced by other vegetables (some varieties have leek or mushrooms). In Ronda, for example, chestnuts are added.

Recipe

Ingredients

  • Oxtail (bull or cow)
  • Onions
  • Green pepper
  • Ripe tomatoes
  • Carrots
  • Peas
  • Garlic
  • Rosemary
  • Thyme
  • Orégano
  • Bay leaf
  • Red wine
  • Olive oil and salt

Directions

Brown the pieces of meat seasoned with salt and pepper, and set aside. With the same oil, sauté the vegetables (discarding the tomato skin) and add the spices. Crush it all. Put the meat back in the pot with the sauce and water, leaving it to cook for an hour and a half. While reducing the stock, add the carrot, peas and bay leaf.

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